Measure Up!

Several times a week I get emails about Measurements! I think most people don't know their measures and only choose clothes by the tag size. The problem is that every manufacturer uses different measurements for each company to describe  each Number on the size tag. And some makers use numbers like 0, 1, 2 ...

Modern clothes makers have charts online...Penneys,  Sears, LLBean...so you can check it before you buy.
The most important rule is Know Your Measurements!!!
If you shop for Vintage clothes online you really need to know that! Vintage clothes have tags, but they mean nothing! With vintage clothes, you need to know about measurements, and how different styles were cut in that era.

Generally, the difference between the bust and waist is 8" - 10", and from the waist to the hip, it is more often 10" - 12".
Before the 50s, measurements were closer together because the style was looser.  You see alot of 36" - 30" -  40" ratio.
The 50s saw the rise of girdles and corsets under the clothes, so the waist shrunk and clothes got tighter! You see a lot of 36" - 26" - 40" ratio.
This is important stuff to know... ;-)
The 60s emphasized  slim hips, especially in Junior sizes!  The 70s brought about a more casual fit and attitude...except for those tight high waist jeans!
The 80s....big. mostly big! 

So relying on a number size is not gonna work! And....size numbers are completely different from 70 years ago.......to 50 years ago, to 30 years ago......

AND...if that wasn't confusing enough.....misses sizes (made for mature women), and junior sizes (made for teenage girls) are also different!
A misses Small is more like a Junior Medium, because misses sizes have larger busts, larger waist and larger hips as a ratio. Junior sizes have smaller busts, smaller waist, slimmer hips as  a ratio.
I describe vintage clothes as a S - M, for instance....and that is why. That, and personal preference.

Now, we don't have Half-sizes like in the 30s - 70s....half-sizes were meant for the "mature" "middle-age" woman who was petite. I think of this old-fashioned size range as "Northern European peasant"...in other words, My People! They were short, about 5'3", and weighed more than the average woman, and had very large breasts.

The shape of the garment is important to consider also. This 70s oversize dress has a very casual fit, and can work for a few sizes depending on how tight or loose you want a dress to look on you.

But .....this strapless dress is fitted......knowing your measurements, and paying attention to the measures of the dress is more important....

The average woman size today is taller and thinner than in years past. Over the centuries, people have become taller because of better nutrition and greater access to education and government public health programs. Changes in societal tastes in women's body shapes is a long long Doctoral Dissertation...that I won't go into right now....but if we look at Fashion...we can see that Boobs...or Butts...or Cleavage...or whatever...comes in to fashion and women diet, women corset up or corset down....

Both of these pictures are from the mid-50s. Boobs, and tiny waists were in vogue! so, corsets and tight long line bras, Merry Widows, and Girdles were worn to create the look.

In modern times, we generally have a more casual attitude about body shapes....but I think what a society wants, and what we really look like are gonna be in conflict.
******************************************************************
So, let's measure ourselves. Once you know what you measure, you can choose clothes over the internet. Now I know most BIG ONLINE shops have a very generous return policy...Because they can afford to lose money. If you buy from a tiny shop, an independent person, who has a passion for vintage clothes, returning clothes for no good reason is not fair.

Let's avoid disappointment for everyone and take a few minutes to watch some cute videos and read up on this topic.
I know a lot about this....I've been making my own clothes for decades....I've been sewing for other people for decades....I can draft a pattern for anything.....so I can offer professional advice.

3 Basic Rules.
1. Add about 2"  inches to your personal body measurements, then compare to a garment you like.
Think about the style of the garment....is it meant to be loose? or tight? or is it a knit with stretch?

2. If a garment is  a bargain, or  if it is for a special occasion, you should consider having a tailor make it fit you like a glove! Vintage garments are made of quality materials, (generally) and will last a long time, so they are worth the extra expense, and a vintage garment is a rare thing....You may never see it again!

3. Ask questions if you are unsure. A professional seller will tell you if the garment won't fit you or will not be returnable for fit issues. No professional seller wants to disappoint a customer...we want you to be happy and we want you to come back! 
*******************************************************************

Ease? What is that?

Ease is the extra room added to the body measurement of a human, so when the garment is being worn,  you can move your arms, lift your legs, and breathe! then, the style of the dress or blouse, might need more room....pleats, gathers, wide sleeves......
Here is a blouse with a lot of ease...for style. Even though the bust measurement across this blouse is close to 50", it isn't for a 50" Bust! It's made for a bust about 40" and the gathers are for style.

To take the bust measure, put your tape across the chest about 1" down from the sleeve underarm sleeve, if the blouse isn't an oversize 80s style, but a normal blouse/or dress.
Notice I didn't stretch out the gathers to get an accurate bust measurement. This measures 19" at rest, and double that for 38". This blouse will work for a 36" to 42" bust at the most if you like a more snug fit. I can't make that decision for you...that's personal preference. All I can do is give you the facts, and you decide.

When I listed this blouse, here is how I described it--- size S to M -
Bust - 38" - 42"
Waist/Hip - 46" (best up to a 44")
shoulders - 16"
sleeves - 24"
cuffs, when snapped - 9"
length - 28"

The sleeves are measured from the sleeve seam, if it rests at the absolute shoulder (not an oversized, dropped sleeve style like from the 80s) all the way down the center to the end of the cuff. This measure is nearly 24".

Another important measure, especially for a fitted top, is the back shoulder measurement.
This goes across the top of the "angel wing" bones on your back. It is taken from the sleeve seam across the back to the other sleeve seam. This measures 16".

The length is made from the shoulder seam just 2" away from the neckline (generally, depends on the width of the neckline), and it goes to the hem. This blouse measures 28" long.
Since the blouse goes to the hipbones, I took the measure of the hem, at the hips so you will know it will fit there too.


 Pants----- oh boy.  high rise. low rise. medium rise. Let's stick to a basic pair of pants.
To measure the hips, lay the pants with the legs gently separated. Measure from side seam to side seam at the crotch. This pair is 36" wide, when doubled.

At the waist, when the elastic is relaxed, measures 24", and then you can pull it all the way open and measure. The relaxed elastic measure is very important, and should only be  about 1" - 2" smaller than your waist because the pants need to be snug but not tight, so they will stay up!

Here's another How To Measure Video from Sandy Mendoza of Debutante Vintage clothes! 

Planet Moronica

Planet Moronica.*
The interwebz is full of so much shit that it is so hard to find what I actually want anymore. So many websites with nothing but garbage.

I was looking for info about Converse shoes and this gem popped up....OMG, I Dress Like My Kid ! 
... maybe it's me, and it usually is, but I dress like, either, a 14 year old boy in Cons, moccasins, jeans, t-shirt, sweater or trench coat......or I dress like I slept in my Stevie Nicks costume one day too many.

so, this gal,  Sally Schultheiss, wrote, 
"One day when my son Eddie was 4, I got out of the car at preschool and realized that we were both wearing hoodies, Converse low-tops, jeans and T-shirts. My 36-year-old self and my toddler son were dressed identically."
And I'm thinking...SO WHAT.

yeah, so what? I dress for comfort. Are women still supposed to dress in high heels and pearls and a fake a smile everyday??  If dressing in boy's clothes is what you like, if you are comfortable, I say, Do It!  If dressing like 1952 is what makes you happy, well, same thing. do that.
I was forced to wear a dress to school every damn day of my life as a school girl until.....High School in 1970! yes, CAN  YOU IMAGINE?
You kids can wear anything you want....and us oldsters had to wear a dress (but not the guys, they got to wear pants!)

 anyhoo.......Sally goes on to say ," Unless you have exceptionally amazing hair, hair that would be criminal to cut short (think Maria Shriver), think twice about keeping its length much longer than your shoulders. Do you want dads at the park oggling those tresses from afar, only to get close and feel bummed that you're not 22. (Yes, you're gorgeous in your own way. But not in that 22-year-old way.)"
 Really?
I can't imagine why any married woman out at the park with her kid would give a flying turd what a dad-man thinks of her.  I guess this poor woman, Sally, has so little self-esteem, she is still dying for man-attention that she wants the eyeball of Any Man to give her his approval.

I find that sad.
I intend to continue to wear my hair long and gray...if I damn well want to, and if I disappoint a 22 year old boy, well, I guess I shall just run that risk.......
So Ladies, dress like you want. Even if you are 74 years old and dress like a clown. Be my guest.
so yeah, I find all the "how to dress for your age" advice ...mostly just sad and so old-fashioned. I like to dress for comfort, or to dress like it's Halloween!
If I actually had a real day job, or had to appear in court, I'd take advice from this sweet lady....the always sartorially sassy Trystan Bass.

and then there was this bit of advice about choosing a new hairdo. (I lost the link to the actual e-article, but trust me, it was dumb.)
It was a post about how to choose a hairdo. yes. Gee, I don't know how to pick a hairdo. I am a grown woman but I can't pick up a magazine at the grocery store??

I can't book an appointment with my hairdresser and ask Mr. Steve, "What length should I do now Mr. Steve? Should I go long or how about those blonde streaks all the ladies are doing now?"

I don't know how I arrived there, at that dumb lady-website, but it made me want to poke out my eyes... Who is that stupid?!?! Even a 5 year old can cut hair.....poorly, but still.
If you land on any blog aimed at women who have hair or wear clothes, you will regret your life when you read crap like this...Who writes this shit?? and gets paid??

BUT if you want to hear something cute tho....I suggest this! This 3 minute link of pure joy....goes to Cafemom, and it's an audio link to hear a dad asking his 2 girls How did this haircut happen? ;-)

*thanks to my smart husband for the Great Title!

This + That = yeah.

Dressing like a lady...somewhere between uggs and a caftan...lies some classy stuff....

 a fall calico skirt with a vintage Bonnie Cashin Jacket....

With a cream leather clutch and pale tortoise vintage Polaroid Cool Ray sunglasses.

Keep your head warm...with a 70s velvet print cap.....

*********************************
*********************************
A vintage girly motorcycle-inspired black leather jacket.....

with a vintage satin corset top ....a Big Bow and Stripes!

Vintage stripe hat (lots of fake pearls and chains..)

and hey, wear at least 2 colorful crinolines
 lavender....
 ....and black with pink....
not the same old Holiday outfit, eh?

******************************
******************************
An   airline style..tote bag  paired with a  vintage blue herringbone suit...

and under the suit....a cute vintage calico blouse...

add a plaid wine leather vintage wrap coat....

*************************************
*************************************

Long pleated blue plaid wool skirt and a matchy-ish vintage blue jacket..with a black velvet collar....

Cuuuute knit beret...to keep the head warm....

and a Dash of Fall flavor...oatmeal tweed trench coat.....

Real clothes, Real stuff......

One of the greatest pleasures of life is to wear fine clothes that feel good, wear well, look great on you and have that touch of quality.
This is but one reason I love vintage.
Utilitarian. Filson. this one is vintage.


Clothes and most of everything else used to be made of "real ingredients" as I like to exclaim....
I had a yell-fest the other day when I had to buy some dungaree buttons from the fabric store to repair a pair of jeans that had lost the waist button. This is the kind that's metal and is whacked in, instead of a buttonhole and a sewn button......
I don't have any vintage ones on hand...made in Taiwan in the 70s and 80s, and before that, in the US. The ones I bought were Made In China they were shit!
I whacked the first one and it broke!
The second one bent!
First I despise crap made in 3rd world countries because it is usually done by children and exploited workers. This issue is well-know now, so I won't bother with links here (just Google!)
and second, I only want to buy and use Honest to Goodness Good Stuff.
This Filson cruiser jacket will last a half-lifetime of use. And work well. And made in Seattle.



So...I buy a lot of utilitarian, military, fair-trade and local-grown and made, and commercial stuff...and vintage of course!

Military is always made for serious adventures.
Functional. A-2 with a fur edged hood.


Vintage Banana Republic......a fashion line that is excellent quality.




I love linen and silk. Where do they come from? It's hard being me...
Here's some super quality vintage I've just listed.......
a gorgeous full skirt vintage SPRING dress in an XL...




a knock out fabulous vintage Escada suit....so Amazing in the detail, the quality, and the style is classic, military-influenced and so steampunk!
and...so classy for some Old Lady Chic!



A charming turn of the century (last one) style blouse in a sheer soft polyester from the 70s that is 100 times better made than dreck made today...

Here's a gorgeous vintage 60s cocktail dress......the quality and workmanship, and the silk chiffon....fabulous !

and...from remnants of other projects, I made these romantic spats....



when I return next week from my teeny weeny vacay.....I'm starting in on spring coats, spring dresses, denim fables, more men's wear.....tote bags.....
and a line of ultra romantic needs for the steampunk woman......

Yeeks, I can't wait !

the garden...Spring is coming!

So What's Up with That?

well I am almost always in black......gray.....dark green.....navy....purple.......The Jewel Tones......The Dark Jewel Tones....
I know I'll always feel dark.....still.
So what's at work here....it's been brewing for a year or so....
is a slight shift in color and texture.
I always loved velvet, velvet, velvet and lace. And Leather.

and, being of A Dame of a Certain Age, I know I want to wear things that are simpler in style and fabric, and color.
and sepia, gray, cream, oyster, ivory.......
and black...

Some women want to keep with the multicolors....
the big prints...
the ooky pastels.....
And that's fine for them.

A closer look. The owl pin was a xmas gift. I love the autumn colors, the sparkly, and the fact that it has worn paint....Patina.

And I'm tired of looking at my burlap jacket that I thrifted in the 80s from the Salvation Army store on 6th (back in the olde days), and never wearing it ....there's a liquor store there now...so that's a pretty good trade.
So, my burlap jacket from the 70s. It has the Campus Casuals label. That's what I wore the other day. and a linen skirt, Espirit label from the 80s. And these chocolate leather otk boots from Ginchybaby on etsy.
Underneath...a simple gray cardigan and gray stripe mitts. Oh yeah, argyle tights in the same brown tones.
a color scheme faded as an old field in late winter......instead of shocks of separate color, my scheme flows neatly into each other........and the texture has spark and interest.
just about, but not quite sophisticated. More fun.



The jacket came with the holes.......and I love that.
I love the contrast between the fact it is a fairly structured jacket with holes..made of burlap. I love the shell buttons. I love the color of the lining. Faded. and torn.
It's the color of junk.







What possessed the Campus Casuals line to make a jacket of burlap? Were they trying to reach the college gal that was hearing the call of social justice, of ending the Vietnam War?
Was she listening to Bob Dylan and Joni Mitchell instead of Van Halen and Kiss? A college girl......or a college age girl....she must have had more on her mind that matching her shoes and handbag.